Giambattista Valli Fall/Winter 2024 Couture - Review
Giambattista Valli graced this season's couture calendar with an Indian garland inspired array of tulle and flower petals. Adorning each statuesque model that walked the runway we saw veils of mesh, scattered petals and unapologetically larger than life gowns. Though, some missteps here and there figuratively and literally, the signature flowing silhouettes and dusty tones of the fashion house were unmistakable and feminine as ever.
Valli’s use of the flower petal motif fit right into the season's emerging trend of small repeating patterns with an added surreal spin that took it straight into the couture staple. Pierpaolo Lai and Karin Westerlund made specific choices for the makeup, mostly youthful and light paired well with the very Indian garland inspired collection. It felt odd to see so many shades of pastel in a fall/winter collection however there were memorable cuts in the collection with a particularly striking black dress that had geometric hip shaping helped to cut up what could have been an otherwise monotonous array of tulle and colour.
One cannot discuss the new Valli collection without mentioning the choice to paint some of the models shades of pastel that contrasted the shade of their gown. I can enjoy a painted person as much as the next, however, I wish the team had gone further and actually made the same beauty look we saw on the other models but with the pastel skin shades. This could have taken it from an attempt at the Avant Garde to a fully fledged triumph. The looks were missing that human dimension they needed to go from face paint to painting the face.
The court shoe style ballet pumps and mules were another ode to the Indian fashions Valli saw in his influences, however, they looked difficult for the models to walk in causing a few stumbles and cringes. Not a great selling point, nor did it make the otherwise gorgeous pieces look their best. A true celebration of cultural influence and on the backdrop of traditional Hindustani classical music, it was a spectacle to witness.
To experience the full show yourself, watch it on YouTube at: https://www.youtube.com/live/2R5vTxSo8dE?si=aV2cssKzX9Z0usJM
Let me know your thoughts in the comments below!