Schiaparelli Fall 2024 Couture Collection - Review
As hoards of celebrities and buyers piled into the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, nobody could have anticipated being scurried into the basement to see the works from the latest Schiaparelli couture collection, but that is exactly what happened. Whisked away and seated around a large rectangular runway covered in sand, the lights went dark and spotlights trained onto the stage. The intimate atmosphere set perfectly for the first pieces to step out.
A pair of gold embroidered wings wrapped around a black velvet dress cutting off right underneath the calf was what graced the runway first. Reflecting in the show lights, the model slowly slinked along in a zigzag pattern, showing every member of the audience the garment she wore. This marked the first of many sculptural, yet subdued for Schiaparelli standards, ensembles that would head down the runway.
Inspired by the silhouettes of the 1950s, Daniel Roseberry chose form-fitting midi-length gowns that cinched at the waist and accentuated the shape of the body. The emphasis was on the abilities of the house and that could not have been more clear than in the details of this show. Millefeuille circles hemmed a hourglass corset dress and a tulle gown gave way to an underskirt made up of copper rhinestones. The time and the luxury of each item could not be denied and the setting only heightened this, with a sense that we had stepped back to those first salon-hosted fashion events.
There was no shortage of interest however, as this is still a Schiaparelli show. Dresses made of beaded mesh and very little else could be found and a dress bustier shaped like high heeled shoes. There was fun, weirdness and sensuality fit into the 31 look collection. Roseberry once again got everybody talking, and Kylie Jenner arriving in a custom Schiaparelli look for the show helped cement this show’s place as one of our favourites of the season.
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